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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.